Catalog scan of my Colnago

BTW---not sure if I posted this before, but found this scan of a Colnago catalog from 1988. And I think its my bike.

There are many Colnago's out there. With very small deviations in each model.

Why do I think this is mine?

1. The right chainstay and rear dropouts are chromed.
2. Fork is chromed (my bike has a chrome under the white, but I had them powdercoat over it because the chrome was in very bad shape).
3. The fork crown has the C with the clover inside of it.
4. 2 cable guides on the top tube.
5. Non fluted seat stays with the Colnago panto'd into them.

Thats about it. I haven't found another Colnago that had all of that in common with my frame. As I can see now, my decals aren't "accurate" for the Super Sprint. But thats okay with me. I love the poser WC stripes. I'm not worried anyone's going to confuse me with a World Champ anyway.

If anyone has any information about the 1988 Super Sprint such as a price list etc, that'd be great. Email me at plusonelap at gmail dot com

Colnago: Done

Finally built her up last week and was able to snap some shots this weekend. She's been built for some time now, but I didnt want to post pics until every last detail was in place.

Even so, there are a few things that are still on the way or in the works to make this beauty queen even more glamorous. But this will do for now.





Build:
Frame and fork: Colnago
Shifters: Ultegra STI
Front and rear deraileur: Dura Ace
Cranks: Dura Ace
Wheels: Araya
Pedals: Crank Brothers Eggbeaters
Brakes: Paul Neo Retro front and Touring rear
Cassette: Sram

I am considering swapping out the saddle.




Also the stem is pretty sweet, I think its an ITM, but I just bought a pantographed Colnago stem that will be even sweeter.

Another item I have that I was able to find was this sweet Colnago bottle cage. I think they are fairly rare as I only ever seen a picture of one other. They were probably $3.95 back in 1981.



This one has some chipped paint, I'm considering a repaint, but I want to save or recreate the Colnago decal first.

Just as a flashback, here is what the frame looked like when I first got her:





And the finish again:



more photos here

Ebay craziness

I would have paid $120, not $257. Crazy. But it would have looked so sick on there.

Colnago: Waiting for packages

So, you'd be surprised how hard it is not to spend $80 on an Italian Octalink bottom bracket these days. I bought the Dura Ace 7700 cranks, which look so sweet, they have that retro Campy cleanliness to them, but they take the Octalink. Anyway, I got one on order, and it should be here in days, hours, any moment now.

Also, you'd be surprised how hard it is to find white brake and shift housing at an LBS. I went to like 5 shops here in Portland and then called another 4 and no one had any. How hard is it to stock white? I guess pretty damn hard. So I ordered some off Ebay. That's on its way.

Stems: I really want a pantographed Colnago stem. There I said it. Am I willing to pay $120 for it, maybe. Thats how bad I want one. But in the meantime, I have a Cinelli quill that will work, also I have a chrome quill on its way from where else but ebay.

Saddles: You can see in the pic above what saddle I have right now, some Selle Royale white rubber thing. Fairly period, but been thinking about a chopped honey Brooks. Looks pretty cool. And the chopping makes it look a little less townie. If that makes sense.



Anyway, I cant do crap until I get the BB and the cables. All the other stuff, like the saddle and such can wait til a later date. I wanna get this thing built so it can be ridden.

Colnago: decals are cool

So, the frame is "saved" and I decided to go forth and apply the decals. It was an involved process, I used the wet... application method, where you apply some soapy water to the frame in order for the decals to be moved and adjusted a little before they set up. It allowed for a little adjustment, but not a lot.





The seat tube decal was a little too wide and should have been trimmed prior to application, but in all, it looks pretty cool. Especially, if you recall what the frame looked like when I first got it.





There are still a few parts I'm waiting on: the chainrings are on their way and the italian octalink BB still needs to be ordered. Also, I'm on the hunt for a new stem as well. I have one, but I'm not sure I like it. Its not shiny enough.

Colnago: Frame saver applied

Last night, stopped by River City Bikes here in Portland and picked up some JP Weigle's Frame Saver. Pretty easy and self explanatory on how to apply: squirt some down the tubes. Not sure if it helps bikes that are already rusty inside (not that my frame was, at least not in the BB area). Easy insurance though. Supposed to last a few years.

Colnago: the plastic comes off

Just got my Colnago Super to cyclocross bike conversion back from the powdercoaters, and snapped some pics. More pics by clicking "more" funny how that works huh?

Click on the pics to make bigger (as usual).

Look what I got back today...

The powdercoating didn't come out perfect, but it looks pretty nice just the same. More pics later, btw I got my Colnago decal set today as well.

Colnago Cyclocross

Previously I was reporting on building up a Colnago road bike into a cyclocross bike. As the season rapidly approaches, I've started working... on it again. As mentioned the other day, I've purchased some decals for this thing. Also, I just dropped off the frame at a local powdercoater. I think powdercoating is the perfect solution to the rigors of cyclocross.

Powdercoating is strong, durable, wont chip easily, plenty of colors to choose from, and its fairly cheap too. My local powdercoater is doing my frame and fork for only $100. I've chosen DuPont Sky White. And will leave all of the chrome sections exposed for the obvious reason----Chrome = cool. They said it would take 1-2 weeks.

The only downside to powdercoating on a frame like this, is that the lug cutouts of the clover and the "colnago" will not be as sharp as in a typical paint finish. I am willing to deal with this, as I value the toughness of the powdercoat and HATE paint chips on an otherwise nice bike.

I reported last time, that the frame spacing changed after the dimpling of the stays. I respaced them without issue to 130mm before I took it into the Powdercoater.

The only part I need now is a set of Dura Ace Cranks like these:


To match the DA headset that I've got for the bike, as well as the general 80's theme. I'm excited that within the next month, I'll be able to take this creation out for a spin.

What am I working on?

Hint: I just bought this:

Colnago Conversion pt 5: Where we at?

Well, first post in a week, and I thought I'd give a little update on where the Colnago "restoration/conversion" is going. Basically, Im hunting down the parts that I still need, like a Dura Ace seatpost and cranks. I bought a stem that will work, Cinelli, 1980's period-ish. Ideally, I want to toss on a Dura Ace stem, but I dont want to pay $75 for one, so im hunting the ebay for one at a reasonable price.

I've considered some of the comments I got on the last post about running STI's and Ergo's, basically no one wanted me to use barcons. This is my reply:

I wanted the drivetrain (derailleurs, cassette, cranks etc) to be Dura Ace because all my wheels are Shimano. I chose DA because all my other bikes are Shimano, and I already had some Shimano parts to go on this bike. I could run Campy Ergos that ran through a Jtek to my DA derailleur but thats weird. Campy shifters and the rest of the bike is Dura Ace? I dont like that.

I could sell off all my Shimano stuff that I've bought for this project and replace it with Campagnolo, then I could use Ergos, but I dont I'd still have only Shimano wheels laying around, and I dont like conversion cassettes, I've never had one that shifted like a champ. And I dont need to collect Campy wheels for just this bike.

I could use Shimano STI's, and I might do that at some point in the future, but right now its about building this as cheaply as possible to minimize the amount my fiancee yells at me when I bring home more bike parts to go in our cramped "office". But "dont cry for me" +1lap reader, things will be okay, I have a plan.

At this point, I really am going to use barcons, If I can snag a deal on a set of STI's, I'll pick them up and mount 'em up, but til then, I'll be in the drops with one pinky on the retro-indexed shifter.

Unless anyone has parts they want to donate to the project?

Colnago Conversion part 4

The build list?

I want to keep a fairly retro feel/look to this bike as its not a new bike. Its going to be powdercoated white. All white with the chrome in places (as mentioned).

All the components will be silver. I will also have a replica Colnago decal set in white with World Champ stripe color theme for the tubes.



Many Colnago’s came stock with this decal set at one time, its not me merely trying to be a World Champ poser. That would require me wearing this:



And for the build list, I’m thinking of going full Dura-Ace model 7402. Campagnolo would be a better fit for this bike being that it’s an Italian manufacturer, but I really like that old 7400 series Dura-Ace stuff. It looks pretty sharp and it’s cheaper than its Campy counterpart.

What I have and what I still need.

I have: Frame, Fork, Dura-Ace headset, Dura-Ace Bottom Bracket, Tektro aero brake levers (silver, could use new hoods), Nitto shallow drop bars (silver), Candy Sl pedals, White Saddle, Wheels, Paul Neo-Retro and Touring Brakes (silver), White handlebar tape, Dura Ace 7402 Front Derailleur, Dura Ace rear derailleur.

What I need:
27.2 seat post (Dura Ace)
100-110 quill stem (silver or titanium) preferably Dura Ace
170-172.5mm Dura Ace Cranks
White brake lever hoods
Sram/KMC Chain

I still need to decide on the method of shifting.

A typical conversation that occurs within the minds of many cyclocross racers and amongst friends goes like this:

Retro Ron: This is a retro bike; you need to stay with the theme. If this was 1983, it would be bar end shifters for sure.

Modern Matt: But its not 1983. Its 2006, and better options exist.

Retro Ron: But barcons are more durable in the mud and muck.

Modern Matt: But they’re kind of a pain to shift with once you’re used to STI/Ergos.

Retro Ron: But barcons are cheap.

Modern Matt: But they’re kind of a pain to shift with!

In the end, Retro Ron will always tout barcon’s durability and low cost. And Modern Matt will come back to convenience and ease of shifting. For this build, I think I’m going to use barcons. If this was a 2006 Specialized or Redline, I’d probably choose STI levers. But the scale was tipped in barcon’s favor with the theme of this bike being a retro one.

Lastly, I've got the rear dropouts pretty clean and sparkly. Here's a photo progression of what that process was like:


Dropout 1: As I received the frame.


Photo 2: Some Epoxy paint stripper applied.


Step 3: Most of the paint off.


Step 4: All polished and looking good.



Part 5 coming soon...

Colnago Conversion part 3

Part 1
Part 2

Well the conversion is changing into more of a restoration. This Colnago frame technically has all the aspect of a cyclocross bike now (rear width for a cross tire, and cantilever brake mounts), now its just piecing it together and restoring this forgotten and abused frame into something wonderful.

Today, I removed more powdercoat from the fork crown and dropouts. Because this fork was once all chrome, the dropouts are still chromed, so I will leave those chromed areas as well as the fork crown unpainted. Basically, my plan is to clean up the areas of the frame and fork that I dont want the powdercoater to powdercoat.

These areas will then get masked off and the rest of the bike will be PC'ed white. The pantographs on the frame are begging to be accented, so I am in the process of choosing an accent color. Thus far, I'm thinking blue or red. Below is a rough photoshop mockup of what I'm thinking the fork will look like when complete with the red accent.





The chrome on the dropouts is in better condition than that on the crown, which kinda sucks, but guess thats life. The dropouts are stamped Brevetto Colnago. It'll be nice to not have the dropouts on the front or the rear powdercoated as this way the skewer wont tear up the paint in those areas.



stay tuned for part 4...

Colnago Conversion part 2

Part one of the series here.

I got a call from Tony of Pereira Cycles saying that the process went smoothly and that it’s ready to be picked up.

The dimpling looks like it’s going to work really well. Tony was able to give me six more millimeters (totaling a rear width of 39mm) so now my 700x30’s have a healthy amount of clearance. Yeah, it’s not as much as a dedicated cross bike, my Specialized M4 measures 45 mm, but it’ll be enough I think.



The dropout spacing changed after the dimpling process though. It was spaced at 130mm before and now its 121mm. Not a big deal, re-spacing a steel frame isn’t too hard, so I’ve read. I’ve never actually done it, but Sheldon Brown has a pretty informative tutorial on how to do it on his site here that I am going to do. I just need to make the decision, is this bike going to be singlespeed or geared?



My singlespeed Nishiki (which is also a converted road bike) has 126 spacing and thus my burgeoning collection of SS wheels are spaced at 126mm. But if I make this geared, then all my cassette type rear wheels are the now standard 130mm.

I really like the simplicity of a singlespeed bike. One gear = few problems. But I already have one of those----do I want two singlespeeds? Currently, my geared Specialized cross bike is in pieces (mainly because I’m lazy and unmotivated to build it up as I’ve been having enough fun with the Nishiki). But in the end, I think I am going to make this bike my geared cyclocross ride.

Doing some more research on the frame by looking over the catalogs at bulgier.net, and it looks most like a Super Sprint from the 1988 catalog.



But from what I’ve read all the late 80’s bikes had “Colnago” stamped into the drive side chain stay, and mine doesn’t have that, so it’s a probably an earlier version.

After doing some more powdercoat stripping of the frame and fork, I’ve found what I expected, that the fork was chrome before they brazed the canti’s onto it. But, the crown is still chrome and in good condition, and I will probably leave the crown chrome with the legs of the fork white. The combination of white and chrome on this bike should look pretty cool, and I already have a cool retro white saddle to go her.



more to come....

Converting a road bike: the Colnago Conversion

This is the first installment of a series documenting the conversion of a Colnago road bike into a Colnago cyclocross bike.

Your first thought might be don’t wreck a perfectly good Colnago frame. But I didn’t, I’m just continuing where someone else left off. I got the frame and fork (which also included a Dura Ace threaded headset and a Shimano BB) from the same source of most of my bike junk---the Ebay. It was being sold as a “cyclocross” bike that was actually just a Colnago road bike with cantilever braze-ons already attached. I was concerned with rear tire clearance, and the seller assured me that he had run 700x35’s in the rear without issue. That news gave me the green light to bid, and I “won” it for $173 plus shipping.

The seller didn’t know the year or model of the frame, but I’ve narrowed it down to an 80’s Colnago Super or Mexico. It has cool clover pantographs on the top of the BB shell, “Colnago” etched into the bottom of the BB shell as well as the Colnago clover cut out of the bottom of the BB shell. There is also “Colnago” etched into the top of the seat stays, a clover in the head tube lug, and the clover with a C around it on the fork crowns.





When I received the frame, I was disappointed to find that there was no way 35mm tires were going to fit as my 700x30 Michelin’s rubbed. I got out my calipers and measured the width of the chain stays and it was 33mm. How could 35mm tires fit into a frame that was only 33mm wide? I emailed the seller, and he stuck by his guns saying that he ran 35’s without issue, and that some tires don’t actually measure what they’re supposed to. True, most tires don’t end up at the stated width (those 700x30 Michelins I have actually measure 31mm) but there’s no way his tires could be that mis-measured.

Now, I was at a crossroads. My options as I saw them were to A) run narrower tires like 700x28’s, B) sell the frame as is C) remove the cantilever braze-ons, repaint the frame and sell it as a Colnago road bike (which it is) or D) see if a local frame builder could widen the chain stays so as to allow a wider tire to fit in there.

I’ve always wanted a Colnago, and I love riding cyclocross, so I wanted to try and make this frame work, but I didn’t want to use 28mm tires, so I looked into option D.

What I found is that local frame builder Tony Pereira of pereiracycles.com was able and willing to do the job of dimpling the bike, and he’d charge me a reasonable $30 to do it. The catch was that, in so doing, the chain stays may crack and I’d have to not hold him liable for that unfortunate consequence. I was willing to give it a try.

Before I took the frame to him though, I used some industrial epoxy/paint remover to get off the old and crap yellow powdercoat (PC) that graced this frame. This was not an easy process…the stuff was ugly and on there good. A few days worth of labor and I got the rear triangle fairly PC free. What I found was pretty cool, the dropouts and the right chain stay are chrome.





So that’s where it stands now.

Installment two: "the frame returns" coming soon…